February 2010

While it is mostly true that you should never judge a book by its cover, sometimes it’s doing precisely just that, that you must. If I had a dollar for every time I’ve walked into a restaurant that’s given me the heebies and, hot on the heels of my reservations, the food turned out to be execrable, I probably wouldn’t be writing to earn a living now. Luckily, the upside to that is sometimes you also come across little gems that you know will be ‘keepers’ the minute you step through the door. Mezze is one of them.

'Feels like I just entered a Melbourne eatery,' my friend remarked when we visited. I know exactly what she meant. Melbourne is famous for cosy little bistros infused with eccentric charm that is mostly whimsical but nearly always original, and Mezze has that same charm in spades.

Naked lightbulbs with retro wiring are the focal point of the décor, and the effect is effortlessly striking. Co-owner Perin Petrus says the eatery/bar’s raison d’etre is to serve as a venue for friends to get together and share memories and food. While I’m more than happy to share memories, I’m not so sure about the food, since the dishes at Mezze are generally – in the words of an enthusiastic chav – pretty lush.

The slow roasted pork belly with its cracking crackling is so good I’m considering another visit just to jog my memory, but its position as favoured starter was definitely challenged by the dreamily smooth duck liver pate with a texture that was almost aerated.

Although I’m wary of ordering mussels in Malaysia because more often than not it feels like I’m chewing on a small child’s earlobe, Mezze’s steamed mussels may well help me overcome my phobia. The tamarind, lemongrass, ginger, chilli and honey broth in which the mussels are served should be declared our Asian response to the moules mariniere. Adore, adore, adore. And though I’m not generally a dessert person, the panna cotta in all its quivering, acquiescent glory did it for me.

The downside is that as the area is becoming increasingly popular, parking can be challenging, especially on weekends, but since the wine list at Mezze is fairly priced and thoughtfully selected, you’ve got no business to be driving anyway. Take a cab and get there early. Fay Khoo