Traditional izakayas were once the stomping ground of the weary Japanese businessman, out for drinks after slaving away at work. These days, it seems the izakaya attracts a larger circle of clientele – Izakaya Ichiban, for one, was patronised by diners ranging from couples to families when we made our trip there.

Amidst snug surroundings (warm yellow lighting, earthy décor) we started with the cool, chilly kai sen salad. Lettuce and cucumber were tossed with raw scallops, sweet shrimp and a smattering of tobiko (flying fish caviar) before being drizzled with wasabi dressing and mayonnaise. The scallops and shrimp were sweet and fresh; however, the wasabi dressing barely made a blip. It’s not that I enjoy ingesting large quantities of the piquant paste, but slightly more wasabi would have added a zingy kick.

The una tama toji (eel cooked with eggs, onions and mushrooms) was great comfort food, and it would have been even better if the eel hadn’t been quite so riddled with bones – there seemed to be more than usual. Nevertheless, the clear consommé the eel had been cooked in was eagerly slurped up by all.

The chicken teriyaki wasn’t a very adventurous choice, but we were pleasantly surprised at how well the sticky-sweet teriyaki sauce went with the nicely browned chicken. The slightly more exciting sounding tofu gratin, on the other hand, was a letdown: beneath the blanket of cheese lay a gluey sludge that tasted how we imagine melted plastic would. Thankfully Ichiban’s new Hawaiian maki, just one of the many innovative makis on offer, came next. The compact maki were topped with slices of smooth, pearly pink salmon, and a novel touch came in the form of apple mayonnaise and apple-flavoured masako (capelin roe) daubed on top. Refreshing and zesty, it made a successful, if slightly strange, combination.

Food might have been a little inconsistent, but service was prompt, with spillage being cleaned up in a jiffy. A tip: if you’re having trouble combing through the very extensive menu, get recommendations from the head waitress – as we mulled over ordering yaki udon, she told us smilingly, ‘We don’t do that so well here.’ Top marks for honesty, at the very least.

* * * (3 stars)
Refreshingly honest

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