Out of the frying pan... Paco Roncero

Updated: 12 May 2009
Out of the frying pan

By Brian Kwan

What is the best part of being a chef?
Being able to make [people] happy is the best part of being a chef for me. Of course the produce, the [cooking] techniques are great as well but the bottom line is whether the customer likes the meal or not.

What is your favourite ingredient?
Olive oil. It’s more than just a dressing on a salad. It’s actually a very important oil. I think there are two unique ingredients in the world. One is ham and the other is olive oil. Olive oil is very special because of the flavour, the taste. They have very interesting characteristics. In cooking, you can use different kinds of olive. Like wine, you have a vast variety so does olive oil. It’s very beautiful to work with.

What gave you the idea to turn olive oil into candy, spaghetti, butter and ice cream?
A few years ago, somebody told me that I can’t make different things with olive oil. I said yes. At first I didn’t have any ideas. Now we have a laboratory and we have three people working everyday, only thinking up ideas and new things that we can do with olive oil. I realise that with temperature (with liquid nitrogen), I can change the texture of the olive oil. If you put olive oil in the fridge, it’ll turn into a solid form. But you can’t do so with other oils.

What are some of the best cities in the world for food?
I think every city has very good food. For me, I enjoy Asia a lot. Because everyday I discover different and new produce. I really liked Tokyo, Shanghai and Malaysia. I basically just love to eat.

Spain is fast becoming the culinary epicentre of the world with many chefs experimenting with new texture, taste and cooking methods. What do you think spurred this new food innovation in Spain?
It pretty much began with Ferran Adria. He started creating different things and techniques that inspired a lot of chefs to follow this movement. People think molecular cuisine is about small plates. That’s not it. People can’t eat one kilo of food. It’s too much. But if you serve in smaller portions, you can have a variety of dishes.

Are people bored with the traditional food? Is that why molecular gastronomy is such a big thing now?
No. Traditional food is very important. I can’t make what I’m making now if I didn’t know anything about traditional food. Never. It’s part of our culture.

What is the one must try food/dish in Spain?
The most famous would be the paella. But if I had to choose, it will be beans with chorizo; but only if my grandmother makes it. That’s most important. It has to be made by my grandmother.

Is it true that only tourists eat paella for dinner?
That’s not true.

What was it like training under Ferran Adria?
He changes the way you think.

The Michelin Star recipient from Spain, Chef Paco Roncero, was recently in town for the Madrid Week, serving his speciality – spaghetti, caramel, honey and ice cream made from olive oil – at Hilton KL.

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